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Koso Hae in Columbus mixes traditional Korean food, contemporary style – The Columbus Dispatch

Right here’s a uncommon thought to have about something these days: I hope this turns into a permanent development.
Nonetheless, that notion shot to my thoughts when the not too long ago opened East Market succeeded Budd Dairy Food Hall and the Open Air constructing as an example of city revitalization. As a result of, similar to Budd Dairy and Open Air, East Market inhabits a once-dormant, outdated brick constructing rife with classic character that, moderately than being demolished for “city renewal,” was repurposed right into a dining-friendly facility with interesting out of doors seating close to a handy parking zone.  
Trolley tracks nonetheless crisscross the concrete flooring of East Market, which way back functioned as a trolley barn. Other than these literal traces of yesteryear, this Eighties-era construction close to Franklin Park (it’s only a few goose hops away, if you recognize what I imply) provides an up-to-date inside that may seem stunning given its blast-from-the-past exterior. 
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Together with vestigial trolley tracks, East Market’s smooth, inviting and unusually deep area homes a cocktail lounge (Switch), a roomy and alluring TV-equipped bar (The Railhouse), boutique-style distributors and meals stalls whose present cuisines embrace — further eateries are on account of open — Moroccan, Creole, pizzeria, deli-meets-bistro, waffles and extra. 
The stall commanding my consideration right here is Koso Hae, a kicky offshoot of longstanding campus-area Korean restaurant Diaspora. Based by Raymond Kim, the son of Diaspora’s homeowners, Koso Hae tweaks conventional Korean flavors with some contemporary-style enjoyable.
Sandwiches have grow to be trendy in Korea currently — K-pop idols are sometimes photographed munching them — and Koso is the uncommon native Korean eatery the place you will get the Japanese-invented katsu sando ($13). The sandwich (sando) stars an enormous, crunchy-yet-tender pork cutlet (katsu) loaded into toasted but nonetheless fluffy and comforting Japanese milk bread. Add shaved cabbage, mayo, plus a savory-tangy sauce made with ketchup, Worcestershire and soy, and you’ve got a standout, signature-style sandwich.
The Dosirak with beef ($14) was one other good worth brimming with wonderful flavors. This combo platter — Dosirak loosely means “lunchbox,” and conjures a Korean reply to bento — partnered loads of scrumptious, melt-in-your-mouth bulgogi with rice, lengthy scallion threads, noodle-like shaved daikon and terrific home kimchi
Equally tender and scrumptious, however fiery, pork bulgogi might be substituted. When you simply need rice with both bulgogi (anticipate some tricky-to-maneuver prolonged slices), the inexpensive value is $11. 
Home kimchi contributed deeply to the success of the Spam + kimchi ($13). As a result of the infamous canned pork was cubed, seared, fully included with kimchi and topped with a frizzled, sunny-side up egg adorned with nori strands, this rice-based entree was among the many best-tasting and best-looking dishes showcasing Spam round (OK, low bar).       
Small plates can equal massive leisure. Dumpling followers ought to goal the Mandu ($10): delightfully crinkly pan-fried wrappers filled with a righteous mix of floor hen and onion. 
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An order of Korean wings ($9) introduced exemplary Korean fried hen with a crackly, candy-like shell and a spicy, candy, garlicky and sticky sauce. Koso’s casserole-like corn cheese — corn beneath attractively broiled, peppered mozzarella — properly mitigated the chile sting of the wings, however my serving was small for $10 and lacked the saucy mayo presence I’ve loved in different variations of the indulgent dish.
Higher to spend cash on Koso’s cheap bodega-style items akin to Korean popsicles, spicy chips and refreshing Sanzo sodas in flavors like lychee and yuzu. Koso additionally sells premade sushi that is supermarket-priced however of a lot increased high quality (the salmon was my favourite) and home banchan ($8 a jar) akin to obokchae (suppose Korean giardiniera) and varied kimchis, like a spicy-sweet cucumber-based rendition.   
No matter you get will style even higher when loved from a wicker-esque chair on East Market’s transporting patio. Enjoyable there not too long ago whereas looking at an Eighties-era brick constructing slated to grow to be a Columbus Brewing Co. outlet, I virtually thought I heard the faintly clanking echoes of a trolley automobile whooshing by.    
gabenton.dispatch@gmail.com
The place: 1600 Oak St., (inside East Market), Close to East Facet

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